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FEATURES |
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The Promise of Seclusion:
Hiding Away on Lana'i
by Karen Misuraca
When have you ever found yourself alone on a resort golf course? It's a rare occasion on this planet, except on the island of Lana'i, where only two resorts, two golf courses—and not much else—lie in a pristine Shangri-la.
Pure heaven for a golfer who likes to take her time, and for the frazzled businessperson or the couple overdue for time away, the Four Seasons Resort Lana'i at Manele Bay and Four Seasons Resort Lana'i, The Lodge at Koele on the tiny island of Lanai offer solitude and privacy like few other resorts in the world, plus two spectacular golf courses (fourseasons.com/lanai). The courses here have the fewest players, by far, of any of the top resorts in the islands.
Just 13 miles wide and 18 miles long, a 25-minute flight from Oahu or Maui, and a 45-minute ferry ride from Maui, Lana'i was for many decades a Dole pineapple plantation (the world's largest) anchored by a 1920's-era company town, Lana'i City. The rows of pineapples no longer grow here, and nowadays, just the two 5-star resorts—one upcountry, one on the shoreline—and the Norman- and Nicklaus-designed golf courses—comprise the only development except for a few galleries and shops in the mini-town (note: home sites and condos are now being offered). Recently added to the Four Seasons portfolio, the two resorts, already luxury properties, have undergone refurbishment and expansion to the tune of $100 million.
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The Lodge at Koele
Imagine the estate of a wealthy plantation owner, a country mansion richly decorated with valuable Asian-African art collection gathered from world travels. In the trophy room are early Hawaiian tools and hunting weapons; in the library, rare books, and in the Great Room a two-story-tall stone fireplace, Oriental rugs and comfy sofas, romantic on cool evenings. Some guest rooms have fireplaces, too—rare occurrences in the islands, commonplace here.
In mountain mists, giant Cook and Norfolk pines and ancient banyan trees shade Asian-inspired gardens. Sleek horses graze in emerald pastures. An English bowling green, a sheltered swimming pool and a greenhouse full of orchids are to be found on a ramble around the grounds, where sculptures, streams, ponds and a Chinese pagoda are reasons to linger. Professional archery and shooting ranges, Western and English equestrian stables, English lawn bowling, three croquet lawns, 4-wheel vehicles, and an elaborate 18-hole putting course are among the recreational facilities.
Guests rest from their day's activities in 102 newly redecorated rooms and suites outfitted with window seats and mahogany four-poster beds. Sumptuous fabrics create a manor house setting, enriched with Asian/Hawaiian flora and history accents. Private balconies and patios look onto the gardens and the treetops.
Guests of both resorts enjoy all guest and sports facilities, including the curve of sandy beach on Manele Bay and myriad water sports equipment. Shuttles ply the 8-mile road between the resorts to the restaurants, to golf and the spa.
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> More Lana'i:
The Koele Collection
The Lodge at Koele's collection of art, crafts, antiques and artifacts is a wonder.
What to Do on Lana'i Besides Golf
From scuba and spas to 4-wheeling and fishing, there's more on Lana'i.
4x4 Adventure Package
Four nights in luxurious accommodations plus one of nine great activities each day.
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 Golf at Koele
Hanging on steep hillsides, freshened with seven lakes, rushing streams and waterfalls,
the Greg Norman/Ted Robinson golf course is a lush dream in the moisture-laden climate at 2,000 feet above sea level. With sweeping views of Maui and Moloka'i across the ocean channel, the front nine angles dramatically through ravines wooded with pine, koa and eucalyptus trees. Wild turkeys and pheasant prattle in the brush. Axis deer wander in the dense forest, leaping over gullies and drinking from the lily ponds.
The signature hole, Number 17, plays from an elevated tee, dropping 250 feet to a narrow landing zone defended by a lake and a wall of green foliage around the tiny green. When playing with Norman in an exhibition match, Jack Nicklaus hit eight tee shots before he landed on this fairway.
Resort Lana'i at Manele Bay
Often fifteen degrees or more warmer in temperature than its sister resort in the highlands, laid on red cliffs above deep blue Manele Bay where whales and spinner dolphins are often seen to play, the resort has the look of a tile-roofed villa on the Mediterranean, at least from the outside. An exotic palace awaits indoors—glazed marble floors, Chinese ceramic dogs, carved elephant tusks, vibrant rugs and exotic fabrics, and spectacular, painted murals depicting historic events in Hawaii and Asia. The Great Room, the open-air restaurants and lounge and the library are museum-like, filled with Asian antiques and artifacts.
Joined by breezeways and flower-draped trellises and bridges, two-story wings of 236 guest rooms, each averaging 700 square feet, and larger suites are set within lush, terraced gardens with waterfalls and lily ponds, fragrant with jasmine and gardenia. Light-filled and breezy with openings to private patios or balconies, nearly every room has a sea view. The doors of oceanfront suites open to a large balcony or lanai outfitted with a daybed, and furnishings for dining and lounging.
Guest room decor is a sophisticated, tropical-motif mix of light woods and fine fabrics, blooming plants, original floral artwork and Asian artifacts; commodious bathrooms have soaking tubs. British-style butler service is available.
 Snorkeling, tide pool exploration and swimming are popular at Hulopo'e Beach, just below the hotel. A catamaran and sailboats take guests on snorkeling, sailing and scuba diving daytrips. And, at day's end, sunset cocktails in the open-air Hale Aheahe lounge are idyllic, before dinner in the open-air restaurants.
Clinics and lessons are offered on three Premier cushion tennis courts. There is an oceanfront pool terrace with private cabanas, and a new full-service spa and fitness center have opened.
For ages 5 to 12 years, the Kids For All Seasons program is called the Pilialoha Keiki Camp. At supervised indoor/outdoor recreation, games and educational activities, children are busy and happy for hours at a time.
Golf at Manele
With wind socks for flags, every hole on The Challenge at Manele has wide ocean views and dependable ocean breezes. The Jack Nicklaus-designed track rides steep, volcanic hillsides and rugged red lava cliffs above the sea. Approaches are narrow, and legions of high-sided, pink sand bunkers encircle most greens. Five tees save the day for the high handicapper, who may be taken aback by long carries over gullies and the ocean. The course is 2,000 yards shorter from the forward tees, from which the fearsome carries are eliminated.
At the top of the course on five, views of Maui, Kahoolawe and spouting whales are distractions from the second shot, which drops sixty feet. Bill and Melinda Gates were married on the twelfth, although chances are they did not attempt the 200-yard carry from that tee on that particular day.
The dogleg left on sixteen drops a hundred feet from tee to green onto a cliff top, while seventeen is famous for a 200-foot carry over crashing surf.
Homes on Lana'i
Residential opportunities are available at both Koele and Manele Bay, including home sites, town homes and condos (lanailuxuryhomes.com). The Palms at Manele, fronting the 18th fairway on the Challenge at Manele are comprised of 3- and 4-bedroom luxury condominiums with covered lanais, gourmet kitchens and master suites; priced from $2,375,000.
photos ©Four Seasons
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