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FEATURES |
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Baja's Best
by Karen Misuraca
One&Only Palmilla
Cabo Real Golf Club
Cabo del Sol Golf Club
Marquis Los Cabos Beach, Golf, Spa & Casitas Resort
Las Ventanas Al Paraiso
A year-round temperature averaging 75 degrees and 300+ days of pure sunshine, and the clear cerulean waters of the Mar de Cortez are reasons to head to the Cape Baja peninsula in Mexico for golf and luxury resorts. More than a dozen upscale resorts and hotels line the 21-mile Los Cabos corridor on the Cape between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas. In stark and stunning landscape comparable to the deserts of Arizona and Southern California are the world-famous golf courses Cabo Real, Cabo del Sol and Palmilla.
Washing the entire eastern shore of Baja are the pellucid, blue-green waters of the Sea of Cortés, a mecca for trophy marlin fishermen. Anglers come from all over the world to ply the waters for marlin, sailfish, dolphin, tuna and other large species. The sea remains at a constant temperature between 70 and 75 degrees and teems with semi-tropical wildlife, an unequaled environment for snorkeling, scuba diving and swimming.
Jack Nicklaus kicked off golf on the peninsula in the early 1990s with 27-hole Palmilla, his first design in Latin America. Century-old cardon cacti stand tall on stunning desert and oceanfront land running along the rugged coastline and into the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna, the mountain barrier looming above the Cape. Forced carries fly over mature cacti and oak, pine and pinon woodlands and deep ravines. Nearly every hole is within sight of the sea.
On the Mountain nine, forced carries drop steeply into canyons and sandy arroyos. Shorter and narrower with big patches of wilderness and a lake, the Arroyo nine begins with three dogleg lefts bordered by sandy stretches; long and short holes meander through and over expansive waste areas and nearby large haciendas. On the Ocean nine, the sea sparkles cerulean and every putt breaks toward the water.
 The scorecard of the Troon-managed club reads, "Please be careful of desert vegetation as contact with it could cause injury." The iguanas and the roadrunners ignore the warning, while golfers dodge cactus spines. On hot days, personal cooling units in the golf carts are delightful.
Just short of a hundred million was invested in the refurbishment and expansion of One&Only Palmilla, a Spanish-Moorish oasis that now incorporates 172 rooms, suites and spa villas, all with ocean views. Elegant enough for a grandee, accommodations are done up with rococo mirrors and hand-carved furnishings, fanciful iron gates, "wet rooms" with ocean views and private garden patios. Celebs and movie stars love the very private spa villas, complete with daybeds, air-conditioned pavilions, and outdoor showers. High on a bluff above a beautiful bay and white sand beach, the compound of whitewashed buildings with red rile roofs is surrounded by thousands of palm trees in tropical gardens with bubbling fountains and bougainvillea-draped loggias. Swimming is idyllic in the infinity pool, which seems to flow right into the sea. Your pool butler will appear with iPod loaners, icy mineral water sprays and other thoughtful amenities. http://www.oneandonlyresorts.com
Palmilla has one of the longest established and largest deep-sea fishing fleets on the Cape--31-foot fishing boats and 25-foot parangas manned by top captains and crews. And, the resort will make your tee times on the nearby golf courses and provide transportation.
With hand-crafted Mexican furnishings, a valuable collection of art and tiles, and several open-air restaurants and bars, the hotel is a tourist attraction in itself. A margarita on the oceanfront terrace bar followed by dinner in Charlie Trotter's "C" restaurant is an unforgettable experience as the sun fades into a star-sparkled, blue-black sky. A private dining room, the private cellar dining room and the chef's "Kitchen Table" require advance reservation. For a more casual meal, Agua is an al fresco, palapa-style restaurant specializing in "Mexiterranean" cuisine.
 The Robert Trent Jones, Jr.-designed Cabo Real Golf Club is a chain of green islands of turf in a fearsome desert landscape of huge cardon cacti, ball-snatching fronting the ocean. The track ascends on skinny fairways and small, elevated greens into mountainous terrain to the fifth hole, which runs 454 yards along the edge of a steep canyon to a green sandwiched between canyon and sea at the course's highest point, 460 feet above sea level, whereupon the course begins winding back down. The 14th sweeps to the ocean through a palm-lined fairway, ending in an elevated green at surfside--whales spouting offshore put on a show for TV viewers who watched the PGA Senior Slams here in the 1990s. Get out your camera for the spectacular view of the course from 15th. http://www.caboreal.com
Balancing a 74.1 rating and 140 slope from the blacks, five sets of tees make Cabo Real fair for high handicappers contending with rocking and rolling fairways and unpredictable sea breezes. The starter strikes fear, and encourages the forward tees, when he says, "These are the hardest 9 holes on Cabo."
The 15th green at Cabo Real is perched oceanside just above the pool terrace at Las Ventanas Al Paraiso, a 61-suite ultra-deluxe retreat. Your personal butler will be expecting you. He will greet you with a beverage upon your arrival, then escort you through the tropical grounds to your suite where you can relax on a banquette on your balcony or hop right into your outdoor whirlpool. Intricate stone inlays enhance the white marble floors and a wood-burning fireplace awaits the match. Spa suites each have two balconies with banquettes and infinity edge Jacuzzis; 2 bedrooms, each with double Jacuzzis; a full kitchen, separate dining and living room--and 4-foot-tall candles. Topping this off is a spa room with double massage tables and a giant steam/rainforest shower. Your spa butler will meet with you to discuss a schedule of treatments to enjoy in your suite and/or at the full-service spa. You may choose appearance-enhancing peels and facial lifts, body evaluations, the Ultimate Fitness and weight loss programs, and traditional and exotic massage and skin treatments. http://www.lasventanas.com
All of the 71 suites are exceptionally spacious (A tip: although nearly every suite is quite private, those on the ground floor near the main pool may be less so.) Butlers at the beachfront pool offer sunscreen, iPods, sorbet, frosty Evian spritzers and racy novels.
 As the evening draws near, hundreds of lanterns and candles flicker on the balconies, terraces, in the windows and down the stairs leading to fine dining in The Restaurant and in the open-air Sea Grill, where a wood-fired ovens and grills turn out luscious gulf shrimp, cabrilla(sea bass) and huachinango(snapper), pizzas and locally-produced meats and poultry. Fire bowls cast soft light on Guitaras de Luna, a duo renowned in Baja for the soft Spanish guitar music. As guests seeking seclusion often stay at the resort for all meals, menus change daily. Private dining is also available in the Spanish-colonial style La Cava, the wine cellar. Up to 40 guests who are not staying at the resort may make reservations for dinner each day.
A large telescope is set up for star-gazing on the beach, which is smoothed and cleaned each night. The exotic and very romantic setting at Las Ventanas makes it popular for marriage proposals and weddings, which are coordinated by the Director of Romance. You can arrange for a private pavilion for dinner on the beach, and she'll be surprised when a fellow gallops up on horseback and hands down flowers and the ring--that's your cue for the question. Or, have the D of R put your note in a bottle, and bury it in the sand next to your table. And, don't be surprised if you open the door to your suite to see a rose petal path leading to dozens of lighted candles in the bedroom. Las Ventanas al Paraiso translates as Windows to Paradise . . .
The resort offers a comprehensive choice of guided tours for deep sea fishing and ATV, expeditions, whale watching, wave runner and snorkeling tours. The resort will send a car to the airport for you, and for your return flight, the driver will whisk you, your packed lunch and your luggage right past the long economy-class lines and through First Class check-in, even if you are not a First Class passenger--this is a much-to-be-desired service at the Los Cabos airport.
Although from the highway the Marquis Los Cabos Beach, Golf, Spa and Casitas Resort appears as an unremarkable contemporary building, a world of sleek, chic, understated elegance awaits. Pale marble floors, white sofas and soaring bronze wings calm the senses for the shock of the electric blue sea and sky beyond the open-air reception area--the water is so close, you may imagine you are on a cruise ship. A massive waterfall, 40 pools, and three lagoon-like infinity pools lie at the water's edge. http://www.marquisloscabos.com
 28 oceanfront casita suites sleeping six have private plunge pools, large living rooms, efficiency kitchens, hydrotherapy tubs and Frette linens; two-story casitas have private rooftop pools. Casita guests are carried from the airport in a Hummer or a deluxe van, and are welcomed with a beach bag loaded with a sarong, big beach towels, hats, sandals and sunscreen, while a butler remains at the ready. 203 junior suites all have sumptuous interiors and ocean view balconies, the better to enjoy whale-watching and fireworks after dark.
The open-air waiting lounge of Spa Marquis has dazzling ocean views, outdoor Jacuzzis, and lounge chairs behind a wide waterfall--this is rather nicer than the main spa lobby, which is not as quiet, as beautiful nor as private. Book your pedis and manis for outdoors; and sink into the Quetzalcoatl Oxygenating Experience. The large fitness center has a two-story view of ocean.
Located nearby Cabo Real Golf Club and the other top courses, the Marquis has a designated Golf Desk where tee times, transportation and other arrangements are made; ask about group golfing activities and golf packages (the Surf and Turf Getaway includes surfing lessons, golf, and a poker night with dinner and open bar). Clubs, shoes and bags are available at the resort, too.
Fresh seafood and Mexican barbecue are featured in The Restaurant and the Sea Grill; and, the Saturday night BBQ and Sunday brunches are popular. Cinema Paraiso is a weeknight dinner on the beach with a movie. Stop in at the Tequila and Seviche Bar for tastings and tequila education. Canto del Mar is a 20-seat French restaurant with a charming ante room for cocktails, pashmina shawls laid out for ladies on the patio, and a singular menu prepared by Chef Thierry Dufour.
Privately owned, the resort features original, commissioned art throughout. You may hear a legend about the impressive Jorge Marin bronze angel wings at the entry and his other wings-themed sculptures . . . the wings move at night. 18 miles from the airport (transportation available) and 6 miles from San Jose del Cabo, the 237-suite Marquis is a member of Leading Hotels of the World. Gratuities are included throughout the resort, and tips are not expected. Their other luxury property is in Mexico City.
 At Cabo del Sol Golf Club, breezes off the sea lower the temperatures a bit on the legendary Jack Nicklaus and RTJ,II designed courses that are draped along craggy rock outcroppings along the coast. http://www.cabodelsol.com
Jack's Ocean Course here comes with a breathtaking 147 slope rating from the back tees. Seven holes incorporate 1.5 miles of ocean frontage, with the last three comprising one of the most challenging and unforgettable finishers in golf--the 178-yard 17th asks for a carry over a sandy cove and rocky to a small bunker-framed green that hangs right over the waves. Look for the taco and margarita stand on the 13th.
Bordered by lapping waves, the 18th is modeled after the finisher at Pebble Beach, and the whole course and the coastline reminds golfers of the Monterey Peninsula.
The Desert Course is Tom Weiskopf 's target-style inland layout with panoramic sea views from nearly every hole, 7,100 yards of immense, sandy waste areas, natural river washes and stony outcroppings. Lakes, waterfalls and streams add to the beauty and the task of maneuvering along the roller coaster terrain. Generous landing zones and a lack of forced carries are balanced by several blind shots and hidden gullies, and an abundance of tall cardon cacti.
Other resorts along the corridor include the Hilton Los Cabos Beach and Golf Resort, a sprawling property located on a fabulous beach and quiet cove, the only Cabo resort beach where swimming is advised. A recent $8 million renovation transformed all of the accommodations, kicking the resort up on the luxury scale. Hand-hewn wood accents, oversized bathrooms with deep soaking tubs, flat screen TVs, pillowtop mattresses and silky Italian linens are among the new additions.
The end of the day is idyllic at the Sunset Bar, in a private beach cabanas, and in the labyrinthine infinity pools, where iPod loaners and dive-in movies add to the fun--look for the swim-up sushi bar and the swim-up taco bar. The Golf Concierge will set up tee times and transportation. http://www.hiltonloscabos.com
Kids get free activities all day. Couples in the mood for romance ask for suites set apart from the bustling main area.
Après Golf
From your balcony or from a boat, watch eleven species of whales frolic offshore, late December through late March.
Deep sea fishing is famous throughout the world, and scuba divers find the warm, clear waters a delight, encountering sea lions, giant manta rays, hammerhead sharks, moray eels and tropical fish. Jacques Cousteau called the Sea of Cortés, "The World's Aquarium".
Sailing, kayaking and snorkeling are on the menu, plus desert 4-wheeling, ATVs and horseback riding in the desert. Resorts will arrange all of this for you, plus sightseeing tours and shopping in Cabo San Lucas. Accessible by water taxi is the secluded beach, Playa del Amor, near El Arco, the natural arch at Land's End.
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