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Golf on Riviera Maya

by Karen Misuraca

Along eighty-six miles of surf-splashed Caribbean coastline south of Cancun, the resort mecca of Riviera Maya is now the third most popular golfing destination in Mexico (after Puerto Vallarta and Cabo San Lucas in Baja California). Carved out of lush jungle and meandering through labyrinths of lagoons and canals, the dozen golf courses on Riviera Maya are becoming known for tropical beauty and for course design by some of the legends of golf. Nicklaus, Norman, Rees Jones, Robert Trent Jones, Jr., P.B. Dye and Nick Price are among the course creators.

Acres of sandy waste areas and deep, grassy swales challenge players on one of P.B. Dye's toughest challenges for golfers, Iberostar Playa Paraiso Golf Club. Unlike most of the courses on the flat terrain of the peninsula, Playa Paraiso is characterized by elevation changes, undulations, swales and mounds, with more ups and downs than a rollercoaster. Golf balls bounce off hand-built stone walls, sink into deep bunkers and disappear into bottomless cenotes. The golf club is within sight of a replica of a giant Mayan pyramid, a landmark in the five-resort Iberostar Playa Paraiso complex. Opened in 2007, the flamboyant five-star-rated, all-suite Iberostar Grand Hotel Paraiso welcomes couples only, for pampering and privacy.

At Moon Palace Golf and Spa Resort, twenty-seven holes of golf—the Jungle, Lake and Dunes courses—are attributed to the genius of Jack Nicklaus, who took into account the native vegetation and natural wetlands that are home to hundreds of birds, and to iguanas, coatimundis and the occasional crocodile. Respecting the dramatic sand dunes, Nicklaus deftly arranged the three nines, elevating greens and tee boxes and directing forced carries over the numerous water hazards.

Moon Palace Golf and
Spa Resort MexicoFive minutes from the tourist shops, nightclubs and restaurants of Playa del Carmen, one of the first golf clubs built on the coast, the Robert Von Hagge-designed Playacar Spa and Golf Club has 7,144 yards of narrow fairways winding through native vegetation, small greens and a scary 148 rating from the back tees. More than a hundred Mayan ruin sites and many cenotes, have been preserved on the course, and three-foot-long iguanas are formidable residents.

In a reforested mangrove swamp on the northwest shore of Isla Cozumel, Nicklaus Design Group laid out the Cozumel Country Club, which opened in 2001. Rife with saltwater hazards, where creatures with long tails and big teeth are known to appear, the track is criss-crossed by special corridors called ecovias, built beneath the roadways and wooden bridges, to provide safe passage for blue crabs, iguanas and other species. Four tees make it possible for every player to manage the significant carries over marshy areas. TaylorMade and Nike rental clubs and two-tiered practice tees are welcome amenities at this busy course (about half the players are cruise ship passengers), which is operated and well-maintained by ClubCorp.

Opened in the fall of 2008, Riviera Cancun Golf is a 7,165-yard Nicklaus Signature course with a daunting difficulty of 76.2 rating and 146 slope. Ocean breezes come into play, as do grassy, duney areas, mangroves and lakes, native palm hammocks and breezes off the Caribbean.

One of five hotels in the vast Mayakoba resort complex, the 5-diamond-rated Fairmont Mayakoba is comprised of low-rise casitas built of limestone and red sapote wood and hidden away in dense mangrove thickets along the edges of saltwater lagoons and canals. Golfers step out of their accommodations into small "lanchas"— thatch-roofed boats—to be ferried to the first tee of El Camaleón Mayakoba Golf Club, the home of the PGA Tour Mayakoba Golf Classic.

Laid out by Greg Norman, 7,039 yards of fairway ramble through three landscapes—mangrove forest, limestone canals and wind-in-the-teeth, stunning oceanfront. The club is a carefully managed habitat where herons stalk in the reeds, cormorants dive like black daggers into the water, and anhingas spread their wings to dry in the sun. During construction of El Camaleón, a huge cenote, a massive underground cavern, was discovered and left untouched on the first fairway. Long stretches of sand border several fairways and some greens, and the flashed bunkers are filled with perfect white sand.

Between Cancun and Playa del Carmen, two new golf courses are taking shape, both to open in 2009. Capella Bahia Maroma will comprise a luxury boutique resort and residential properties, and the only private course on the Yucatan Peninsula. A Rees Jones design, the track will feature platoons of palms, mangroves, and striking ocean views, with the 9th and 17th holes finishing at the water's edge. The 18th fairway will be a stunner, running parallel to the ocean. A nesting place for four species of sea turtles, the mile-long, white sand beach will remain untouched.

British Open champ Nick Price designed the soon-to-open course in the mega-development Grand Coral Riviera Maya, adjacent to the bustling tourist town of Playa del Carmen. Said to be the largest resort and residential development on the Riviera Maya, Grand Coral is setting aside three-quarters of the 500+ acres for landscaped grounds, natural forests, lakes and ecologically protected zones.

A new Norman design, 7,218-yard Playa Mujeres Golf Club is a Troon-managed stunner a few miles north of Cancun (not officially on Riviera Maya) between the ocean and Chachmochuc Lagoon, with 10 holes on the water. The Excellence Playa Mujeres Resort here will ultimately consist of four miles of white sand beaches, four luxury hotels, 50+ waterfront homes, private residences divided into neighborhoods, a 250-slip marina, and a 12,000-year-old Mayan Temple!


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