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FEATURES |
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The Greenbrier: Where America Resorts to Great Golf
by Ed Stone, GoGolfandTravel.com
Surrounded by 6,500 acres of gardens and woodlands in the Allegheny Mountains, a National Historic Landmark, the 5-diamond Greenbrier is one of the nation's oldest and most popular vacation resorts. From Ulysses S. Grant to Dwight Eisenhower and 25 more American presidents, the resort has hosted distinguished guests from around the world since 1778. Recently, I visited "America's Resort" and played the Old White, the Greenbrier and the Meadows, three of the classiest and most famous courses on the continent. The setting is picture perfect and the Southern Colonial-style architecture is at once sophisticated and historic, harkening to the days of mint juleps and broad porches lined with white rocking chairs. Every afternoon at 4 p.m., tea is served in the Upper Lobby accompanied by violin and piano music. The staff is exceptional, instantly becoming friends and going out of their way to make your stay memorable. 1,700 staff members, many of whom are second- and third-generation at the resort, consider themselves "ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen."
Two-story, paned windows and Georgian columns grace the colossal, white wedding-cake of a hotel. Decorated originally by world-famous interior designers, Dorothy Draper and Carleton Varney, a series of lobbies and sitting rooms, and the guest rooms, are formal and elegant, with crystal chandeliers, gilt mirrors, marble fireplaces, floral wall coverings and draperies, antique furnishings, and historic paintings. Horse-drawn carriages glide around the grounds while guests, all in white, play croquet and take guided tours of the glorious gardens and historic sites. It's no wonder that guests receive a booklet detailing the dress code for various venues and activities.
The resort reopened in April, 2007, after a $50 million renovation of 63 guest rooms, including the addition of soaking tubs and new furnishings and décor. All of the guest rooms in the resort were outfitted with luxurious new bedding and linens, and plasma-screen TVs. Hemisphere is the new restaurant, and 38°80 the chic new cocktail lounge, both heralding a departure from the more traditional Greenbrier dining experience. Hemisphere features globally-inspired cuisine in a tasting menu format, while 38°80 serves an eclectic mixture of cocktails in a rather theatrical, sophisticated setting.
 Greenbrier Golf
Named for the Old White Hotel, which stood on the grounds from 1858 to 1922, the Old White Course was laid out in 1914 by one of the early masters, Charles Blair MacDonald, who made the most of the rolling terrain in his inimitable Scottish style with plenty of pitch and run, and some forced carries onto contoured and sloping greens. MacDonald modeled several holes from famous European courses: #8 hole was styled after the Redan at North Berwick; #13 after the Alps at Prestwick, and #15 after the Eden at St. Andrews. One of the first golfers to play the Old White was President Woodrow Wilson in 1914. In 1956, President Dwight D. Eisenhower shot a 93 on the Old White, a few months after his heart attack. And, Sam Snead shot his final hole-in-one on #18 in 1995. A multi-year process of restoration and modernization was completed in 2006.
Jack Nicklaus updated and expanded the 1920s-era, George O'Neil-designed Greenbrier Golf Course for the 1977 and 1979 Ryder Cup Matches--as an opening event, Nicklaus and Joe DiMaggio teamed up and shot a par 72 as the first players on the newly designed layout. This is the only resort course in the world to host both the Ryder and the Solheim cups. Heavily wooded with terraced greens and plenty of water, the course asks for some forced carries to the well-bunkered greens.
Teeing off on the Greenbrier on a bright June morning is about as good as golfing gets. You stand where great golfers and presidents have stood, along with politicians, world leaders, celebrities and people of power and influence. In spite of all that, the course plays comfortably for the casual or resort golfer, while serving up some challenges for the low handicapper. Most of the fairways are broad enough to be forgiving to a slight hook or slice, and the greens, although undulating, are quite fair. Most players consider the second hole of this course as the signature, a par 4, 388 yards from the blue tees. Water comes into play on the right side of the fairway from about 150 out, then surrounds about three-fourths of the green on the front, right side and back. A trap protects the green on the left. Overall, this is a pleasant, fair and scenic layout.
 Originally a 9-holer known as the Lakeside Course, the Meadows Course was lengthened to 18 in 1962. A brilliant and much-needed 1999 redesign added 500 yards, reshaped bunkers and moved tee boxes, giving this lovely lakeside track new life. With a meandering stream and views of Whiterock Mountain framed by the Midland gap, hundreds of spruces, oaks, maples, willows, and birches, and blooming dogwood and cherry trees, this is a beauty.
Golf and Resort History
Golf legend, Sam Snead, was a long-time resident and was associated with the resort since 1936, when at age 23, he was hired for his first professional job. He remained Golf Professional Emeritus until his death in 2002; in 2005, Tom Watson took on the role. Fascinating Snead and Watson memorabilia are on display at the Golf Club.
Carl Bradley has worked in the golf shop area for the past 38 years, beginning in 1969 as a "porch boy" serving drinks; later, he became a locker room attendant. He shyly talks about meeting presidents Ford, Reagan, Nixon, Kennedy, Carter and both Bushes. About his favorite, President Gerald Ford, he said, "He would speak to you and not show any signs of being rushed. He was a good man." Bradley also met celebrities such as Bob Hope and many of the top golf professionals of the last four decades, including Doug Sanders with his flashy attire and witty conversation.
The official historian of this National Registry property, Bob Conte is full of stories. He told me that, after surrendering to General Ulysses S. Grant at Appomattox on April 9, 1865, General Robert E. Lee came to The Greenbrier to rest. From August, 1942 through June, 1946, the U.S. Government leased the resort, using it as Ashford General Hospital. Conte said, "General Dwight D. Eisenhower was twice a patient at the hospital, once in January, 1944, before the invasion of Normandy, and again in December, 1945. In the summer of 1945, General and Mrs. Eisenhower stayed at Ashford General following the end of the war; indeed, they celebrated their 29th wedding anniversary in Top Notch cottage."
 As the Cold War with Russia and Cuba began to heat up in the mid-1950's, the U.S. Government began the secret construction of a Relocation Facility, known as the Bunker. The project was built 720 feet into the West Virginia hillside and contained 112,544-square-feet of facilities to accommodate the entire U.S. Congress in case of a nuclear attack. The Bunker was completed in 1961 and was maintained in constant readiness by a small core group of undercover government employees posing as the audio/visual support services for the resort. Ted Gup, a freelance reporter, broke the story. "The Last Resort", in the Washington Post in 1992. With the secret facility then exposed, the Government ended the lease with The Greenbrier in 1995 and later that year, the resort began offering tours of the historic site located beneath the west wing of the hotel.
Spalicious
Opened in 1913 for seekers of health and renewal in the natural White Sulphur Springs mineral baths, the Greenbrier Spa was expanded over the years, significantly renovated in 2001, and continues to focus on hydrotherapy, with European-style, signature treatments, such as The Greenbrier Treatment, involving a sulphur soak, steam or sauna, an invigorating Swiss shower and Scotch spray to break up toxins and cellular blockage, followed by a full-body massage... aaahhh.
The Golfer's Game Saver comprises a mineral bath, a massage focusing on forearms, hands, back and shoulders, and warm heat packs to relax strained muscles. Spa Finder says the 40,000 square foot spa is among the top 10 best spas in the world for Men, Golf, Medical Program, and Mineral Springs.
The Greenbrier Experience
This renowned property has 721 rooms, including 33 suites and 96 guest and estate houses, indoor and outdoor tennis courts, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, 10 lobbies, 40+ meeting rooms and a conference center. Guests enjoy more than 50 activities including trap and skeet shooting, bowling, parcourse, horseback riding, falconry, a French cooking school, hunting, fishing and more.
Major carriers service Charleston, a 1.5 hour drive; and Roanoke. Private aircraft land at Greenbrier Valley Airport in Lewisburg, a 15 minute drive, and AMTRAK trains arrive at the circa 1925 station here.
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